Thursday, January 24, 2008

Couture clash: A riot of fluorescent colour from Christian Lacroix

To the stark modernity of the Pompidou Centre for Christian Lacroix's couture show, though anyone expecting a modern collection would have been wrong-footed by the baroque creations on the catwalk.

"An angel passing by" was the theme of this show, which saw Lacroix at his colourful best.

Often described as "painterly" for his striking use of colour, Lacroix really ran riot, with a raft of voluminous satin skirts decorated with what looked like strokes from a giant and unwieldy brush.

To get truly into the spirit of a Lacroix presentation, the audience must dispense with tired old clichés such as "red and green should never be seen" and embrace the notion of discordant hues.

Fluorescent pink dress trimmed with green tassels and worn with canary yellow tights? Only at Lacroix.

Echoing the angel theme, lace was a motif throughout, often traced in gold filigree along the edge of a skirt or cuff for a romantic effect.

A high-necked cream lace dress with a boned bodice fanned out from the waist, and was worn with ombre - dip-dyed, to you and me - tights, another recurring theme.

Shoes were vertiginous and came in a black and white gingham check, while handbags, when they appeared, were small and dainty, one festooned with a bloom of pink roses.

Lacroix doesn't really do daywear - unless, that is, you fancy wearing a navy blue embroidered jacket and cream silk flat-fronted trousers to the office.

This was as workaday as the collection got: hardly surprising, since Lacroix's moneyed clients have probably never set foot in an office.

His heart lies with eveningwear.

While a lantern-sleeved gown with a blue macramé bustier and a pink and green floral painted skirt was a typically bombastic offering, it was the pared-down dresses which really shone.

Most of his gowns are too avant-garde to be popular on the red carpet, but they are all the better for not being constrained by the pedestrian tastes of Hollywood actresses.

Notably, Helen Mirren is a fan, and wore Lacroix to the 2007 Oscars - a case of strong women loving strong clothes.

Source:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/femail/article.html?in_article_id=509923&in_page_id=1879

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